Safari overview –
Swimming, dipping and bobbing all combining to make this Safari something for everyone. Slightly challenging in places but also relaxing and serene in others this Safari has it all. Three unique swims exploring the inner and furtherest reaches of the Estuary this all rounder has plenty to offer for all abilities with the added bonus of seal spotting.
Location – Chalkwell Beach (The Crowstone)
Tour starts – 8am
Duration – 90 mins
Swims – 3
Level – All Swimmers
Our journey starts at The Crowstone. Looking like a mysterious ruin of an ancient civilisation this century old obelisk, unchanged throughout the seasons, is a constant marker for any local and where we will rendezvous at 8am
Installed in 1837. This piece of solid granite, fourteen feet high replaced a smaller stone that was set in place over 250 years ago. At the time it marked the seaward limit of the River Thames under the City of London’s jurisdiction and its sister stone can be seen sat some 4 miles across the water at Yantlet Creek Kent.
Once we have completed the safety briefing and kit check, we will proceed directly out away from the sea wall on the old cockle path.
A Walk back through time
Directly adjacent to the Crowstone lies the abandoned pathway heading out to the deeper waters. Allowing direct access to Leigh Creek it would have originally finished as a jetty structure or potentially a bridge. It has been suggested this pathway was for fishing boats to reach deeper water – potentially to serve the traditional Leigh oyster industry. However, there are some reports that Anti Aircraft guns were carried out here during WW2 to be closer to German aircraft.
The path is mostly made of raised pebbles. You will see oyster shells littered along the sides of the paths which could have been discarded long ago and show that oysters were common in this area of water. The paths age is unclear and it’s most likely Victorian, however it could be as old as the 15th Century.
Nimble feet and appropriate footwear is the key to tackling the path and trainers or beach shoes are essential for your comfort.
As we approach Leigh Creek, the high sandflats tower 10 feet above us and mark the point of no return. Single file and waist deep for some, the water pulls hard out of Old Leigh. Like water going down the plug hole, the creek empties the last remaining evidence of any water present.
We squeak and yelp. This is our first feel for water temperatures and we linger no more and push each other on. Once we reach the other bank we clamber up the wall of hard sand and are greeted with an image that could be straight from the moon landings. To the West over 4000 meters of uninterrupted sand with Two Tree Island at its limits. In the East the Pier looms in all its Victorian grandeur.
A Line in the Sand
We push on over the high flats towards The Hadleigh Ray. Only visible at low water, The Ray as it is more commonly known has linked the main shipping channel with local areas for centuries, keeping supply chains open even at a low tide. It also provides a shelter and moorings during rough conditions. You will often see a fleet of local fishing trawlers patiently at anchor waiting to get home on the high tide.
We will gather ourselves at its edge. It’s a daunting stretch of water. At nearly 200 meters across with heavy tides and currents, it’s not a crossing to be taken lightly.
We strip off, pack our dry bags tight, take a deep breath and all head out together. Carried by the current and adrenaline we will make it safely to the south bank.
The friendly locals
We get our top halves dry and pop on a warm layer.
The expansive sandbanks of The Estuary are well known for its resident colony of Harbour Seals and this side of The Ray is the perfect place to catch them basking in the morning sunshine and makes an ideal photo opportunity.
Moving on from Seal watch our journey continues further south over the lunarscape.
The outer limits
At nearly one mile from the beach we are stopped in our tracks by the mighty expanse of the Thames and its deep water navigation channel. The view back to the beach from here is something special and worth a moment of reflection of the size and scale of where we are. Some more photos and plenty of time for a splash and a paddle in a spot that very few have ever swam. Being up close and personal with the mighty shipping tankers is well worth that selfie moment.
Once we have let our hair down it’s time to start heading back to where we left our cake.
Being chased by the tide we’ll skip back across the moonscape, ‘high five’ the seals and plunge ourselves back into the Ray for the final big push. We pop up on the other side and can glimpse the Crowstone and our final destination in the distance.
Drawing on the last of our energy, we cross back over the high dune and back down into Leigh Creek. A hop skip and a jump brings us safely onto the old cockle path and it’s a race back to the beach for some well deserved refreshments, a group snap and a debrief.
Must be physically fit, healthy and have experience and confidence in the sea.
